Installing a DH1200 (EPD50) Dehumidifier as a Whole-House Solution

Condensation, dampness and mould are usually symptoms of trapped moisture + weak extraction. This setup removes moisture from the air and dries the fabric of the home.

Scenario

The home had double glazing and an insulated roof. It felt warm but consistently humid — the air felt “heavy”.
As a second adult began living in the property full-time, mould appeared in corners and inside wardrobes.

There was no effective extraction of cooking vapour to outside, clothes were frequently dried indoors, and bathroom extraction was limited due to duct route constraints.

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Why single-storey homes struggle

Moisture migrates upward. In two-storey homes, convection helps lift moisture to upper levels where it can be treated more easily.
In single-storey homes, you often need a larger unit and smart air movement to pull damp air off outer walls and dry it effectively.
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Hide the unit (do it properly)

To keep the dehumidifier out of sight, duct damp air in and duct dry air back out.
That means you need a unit with inlet/outlet flanges and fan performance suitable for ducting.
Note: the EPD30/DH800 is intended for room drying where the unit sits in the room.

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Easy filter access tip

Remove the unit’s inlet filter and use a ceiling inlet grille with a filter holder instead
(reticulated foam ~10mm thick, 10ppi). This avoids needing loft access for routine cleaning
— typically every ~3 months.

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Noise: why ducting helps

Standard compressor units can produce a low, deep tone (like a fridge) that travels through the home, especially at night.
Desiccant units are primarily fan-noise, and ducting can reduce perceived noise dramatically — while keeping the unit hidden.
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“Where does the water go?”

In a whole-house desiccant setup you may not collect liquid water. The best practice is to run continuously for ~2 weeks
to dry out the building fabric. After that, maintain comfort around 60–65% RH.

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Sizing depends on lifestyle

Occupancy, total surface area, rainfall/location, bathing/cooking habits and indoor clothes drying all change the moisture load.
Larger homes may require EPD150/DH2500 or even DH3500/EPD200. Use the rule-of-thumb below as a starting point.

Rule of Thumb for Homes

DH800 / DH800+    (EPD30)

20–80 sqm
Single rooms • Holiday homes • Single garages

DH1200 / DH1200+   (EPD50)

80–120 sqm
Smaller homes • Holiday homes • Double garages

DH2500
(EPD150)

120–180 sqm
Larger homes • Triple garages

DH3500
(EPD200)

180–220 sqm
Larger homes • Larger garages
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Keep the inlet run short

Keep the inlet duct as short as possible for best performance.
In this installation, the exhaust hose was later removed to vent into the attic where airflow was sufficient to manage moisture.

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Insulate attic ducting

Air ducted through a loft/attic cools down. Warm, moist air can then condense inside the ducting.
Insulate duct runs in unheated spaces to reduce cooling and prevent condensate build-up.

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PIV in the UK (a note)

A more traditional UK approach is PIV. It can reduce moisture but may cool the property and increase heat loss.
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